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Stanford Environmental Law Journal. How did cesium get into Alaska halibut? Once you get used to it, it wont feel like you are actually doing anything. You may like fruit and of course it is sweet, but this is nothing new. City residents separate organic waste from their garbage, bag it, and then exchange it for fresh fruit and vegetables from local farmers.
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Along the peninsular atTandjung Benoa was more action with the opening of Queens of India with the same menu as their Kartika Plaza one. Further along towards the point Sakala is a serious attempt at fine dining.
French restaurateur and Maitre d? The Carpaccio of Butterfish and Duck Foie Gras [imported from the Lande region of France, coming as two perfect small discs, prepared Torchon style, sitting on rounds of thin warm brioche] are just two examples of their attention to detail, using relatively simple ingredients to produce incredible dishes.
Others at that site are due to open soon. The Mozaic team to open an ocean front restaurant [different name and style] at Batu Belig, Kerobokan. Bali Deli to open in Sanur and Ubud, Caf?
Moka to open on the Bypass in Sanur. Warren Mead returns to Bali [for a short time he was at Karma Jimbaran] with his simple but effective style of presenting fish so you can actually taste the fish; fresh fish filleted on the premises, dipped in an egg wash to seal the flavour in, then pan fried with olive oil and a dash of butter, with a drizzle of lemon and a sprinkle of sea salt.
Ubud to get a Swedish restaurant, but no one knows where? The Sea Sentosa project at Echo Beach supposedly will have 5 restaurants, some beachfront.
First restaurant due to open early Even the salamis are made on the premises from specially fed pigs raised on a controlled diet. Following on from their success at Sarong, Mama San present the street food of Asia.
All original with nothing toned down for the tourist masses! Best Cafe - All Spice Cafe - Sanur dmall neat air-conditioned cafe offering a variety of local and International dishes, all with the subtle addition of spices.
Best Cheapie - Virgin Duck - Denpasar Located in that area of Renon that features 50 other warungs and restaurants but uniquely different to the rest. Duck many different ways even shredded with pineapple and cheese in their thin crisp Hawaiian Pizza? The Bali restaurant explosion continues. For every restaurant that closed down [for whatever reason] in , another two opened! This has been the norm for the last decade, is there no end to it?
As in previous years many of the new restaurants did not stand a chance, they opened empty and have stayed that way all year. Yet how can you say that the market is saturated when other new places open and find an immediate customer base. Knowing what to do seems to be the answer? Nusa Dua and Tandjung Benoa did not set the world alight, just the usual stream of tourist restaurants, with their?
Up on the Bukit, we see the beginning of positive action on the restaurant scene although it is still a difficult market even with hundreds of private villas and massive new villa complexes [what they now build in Bali instead of hotels]. My Kitchen was the 2nd inhabitant of the site on the main road between Ungasan and Uluwatu.
Nuoc Cham was its original name but that probably confused too many people. A simple Vietnamese caf? Banh Xeo is the famous Vietnamese Savoury Crepe full of small juicy shrimps, bean sprouts, sliced mushrooms [surprisingly the Japanese Shiitake variety] and beef strips, all wrapped in a crepe made from rice flour and water with a touch of turmeric.
Budget priced but that has not diminished the menu quality, great value under the trees. Thin crisp Pizzas [spicy minced beef], tasty snacks [chicken strips] or full meals [lamb shanks], all served with a smile and at low cost. Individual shops rather than open stalls result in far greater quality but still at a reasonable price. The Japanese Ryoshi chain was the star performer here but very soon a small warung version of a famous Ubud restaurant will offer quality cheap Indonesian dishes to add to the mix.
Fried Dumplings are Chinese style, stuffed with squid with a mayonnaise dip. Chicken in the Basket is slices of crumbed boneless meat. Grilled Duck, which includes a leg, is very good, covered with a sweet super spicy Rica-Rica sauce and jukut urap.
Instead of the normal dried shrimps this dish is studded with small juicy prawns, and served? Air-conditioned, clean and friendly, it is a class above the other imports. Topeng also opened in Kuta, on the old site that was once Le Bake [next door to Dijon].
They specialize in very cheap Indonesian food. Everything is pre-cooked and you select it from the front servery. Legian has not done much to excite the taste buds in recent years. A few changes in management along the main road entrance to the beach which will always be called Jln. Double Six, although it never was. Adding to the legend was the opening of Caf? Marzano, a small area that provides quite a choice of great value cafes.
At the end of that road, beachfront, became Cocoon Beach Club and Restaurant. Mediterranean in style and cuisine, eat in a relaxed restaurant setting or poolside. Dishes such as Spanish Baked Eggs [slices of chorizo sausage topped with eggs and salsa, baked in the wood oven] for breakfast, assorted tapas for lunch [Roasted Beetroot Salad, the beet sliced thin topped with small dollops of Manchego cream, sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts or a sensational Tortellini, large rounds of pasta stuffed with a blend of roasted pumpkin and goats cheese, topped with burnt butter and sage, so simple, so good!
An example of the high quality mains is their honey-roasted Lamb Loin. A perfect piece of meat, served pink, as it should be, the knife just slices through it without effort. Serving is just with sweet beetroot and plum jus. Legian old icon Glory became transformed into Layali, Bali?
All those great dips like Moutabal [[roasted eggplant with pomegranate juice, olive oil, sesame seed paste and lemon juice] warm unleavened bread straight from the open oven, Cheese and Spinach pies, and great kebabs particularly the Shish Kofta, minced spiced meat on a skewer.
Now a selection of Arab dishes with spicy rice is also on offer, such as their Biryani, the rice being separate from the meat or fish, and having a consistency more like an Italian risotto but with a strong curry flavour. Seminyak saw more small restaurants open along Dhyana Pura [opening a budget restaurant close to major hotels has always been a license for success in Bali].
Mix Espresso Bar was a strange name for a purely Indonesian restaurant but it has good cheap food. Same area is an Australian operation, Menu, their monster Burger one of their main attractions. The meat pattie is on lettuce and tomato, topped with cheese, bacon, gherkin and mustard, with a fried egg with mushroom sauce. Served on a sesame seed bun, of course! At the other end of the road amongst many closures and renovations was the upgrading of one of the few survivors, Antique.
Between Seminyak and Kerobokan, almost hidden in the garden, was Vienna Caf?. A house entrance opens out into a garden terrace. Austrian pastries and Sacher Torte, rye breads and hearty breakfasts [Eierspeis, eggs with diced onions, peppers and ham, scrambled in pumpkin seed oil] For a snack in the garden there is Farmers Toast, a slice of toasted rye bread topped with ham, cheese and tomato, and a fried egg on top of that!
Finish with a real Austrian dessert, Kaiserschmarren [as originally created for the Emperor Franz Josef], sugared pancakes with apple puree. The Ultimo facelift worked so Rumours, from the same stable, had a complete makeover, air-conditioning and all. The almost new Junction followed suit with a total rebuilding, just the same busy before and after the result. Nirvana opened on a site that had seen many previous failures, and succeeded immediately with that old trusted formula of simple quality recognizable food at affordable prices.
Seminyak Square saw the eventual establishment of a number of chain restaurants; Black Canyon, Kaf? Betawi and Bali Bakery, with a few more just about to open. On the other side old faithful Warung Eropa took over from its Indonesian brother, and doubled in size. Most of the action was on this Petitenget side, some opening and other already closing after just a few years or even months.
Crispy Pata replaced the ill-fated Kembang Goela. Wonderful dishes from The Philippines including the great pork knuckle dish Crispy Pata, but many other great offerings too; Chicken Adobo, Beef Caldereta and finish with their classic Halo-Halo way better than Indonesia? Degan stole the show for value in this street for He only knows two cuisines, Javanese and Thai, so that is what he cooks. Star is their Thai Gai Hor Bai Toey, chicken pieces marinated and steamed in pandanus leaves then deep-fried prior to serving.
The accompanying sauce says it all, tamarind, chilli paste, sesame oil and seeds, slowly simmered till a black paste, not the bottled alternatives served elsewhere. From the Javanese menu a perfect Sambal Goreng Udang, a bowl of prawns combined with potato and snow peas in a rich red coconut broth. Warung Sobat tried to duplicate its long success on Jln. Batu Belig, where the house full sign is out every night, by opening a copy all new and clean, on Jln. Pengubangan Kauh, near Warung Gossip, but not so busy.
Doing a reverse Ubud? It has all the things that Ubud hasn? Along Raya Petitenget Harry Juku [a fictitious man from Melbourne] opened and had to make early changes. Down behind Gourmet Caf? Warung Rakuen-Asia replaced an Indonesian warung with a mix of Thai and Vietnamese, but strangely in the style as served in Kyoto, Japan, in a sister restaurant. Near the corner of Raya? Not far away the new Warisan opened, with a Belgian chef in an enormous space but neither this or the extravagant Metis can compare with that romantic small garden restaurant that was once Caf?
Warisan, back in the 90? The two stand-alone restaurants that have made the biggest statement in Bali were the original Caf? Warisan, proving that quality restaurants outside of the protection of a 5 star hotel environment could work, and the cheeky little Mykonos Taverna which started the stampede to Laksmana, and the pushing of ethnic cuisines.
I always liked Pili-Pili but now it has had a major makeover. Before it was just a small warung on Jln. Merthanadi [the road that connects Sunset Road with the side of the jail], it has always been immaculately clean and always friendly.
This little Indonesian eatery specializes in the dishes from the owner? Now it has moved to a larger location, almost next door. It is in two halves, inside with air-con and the modern serving area, whilst the outside is al fresco on the covered terrace. That it has customers all day proves the formula is right! At Canggu, overlooking the almost private beach, across the road from Tugu Hotel, is one of the finds of the year, OM Organic. A large bamboo structure houses one of Bali?
A spacious dining area, tasty food and relaxed dining well away from the traffic and everyday hassles of Bali, is this small paradise.
As the name suggests there are many organic options, and not only vegetarian. One of my favourite dishes here is their Chicken Steamed in Bamboo. Diced chicken, pumpkin and onions are simmered in coconut milk with ginger, Kaffir lime leaf, red chilli and turmeric, then steamed in a bamboo cylinder in which the dish is served.
Sanur keeps on amazing everyone with the continual opening of new small good value restaurants of just about every ethnic persuasion. French, Dutch, Japanese, Australian, Belgian, Thai, Chinese and American as well as the usual horde of International and local cuisines have all happened in Maurel Dreams Bistrot is French and offers Salade de Foie de Volaille, pan-fried chicken livers [rarely found on Bali menus something that has always amazed me!
Oranje, Terrassen Wok and a Double Dutch now with a full food menu lead the way for the Dutch but Rasa Senang was Dutch with a difference specializing in that now famous Rijsttafel, the way the Dutch serve Indonesian dishes at home. Kokoya led the way for the Japanese with their Robatayaki available from the front terrace cooking area at night.
Many great starters including pickled Quail Eggs. Ramen specializes in Ramen noodles but offers all the standard Japanese items as well. Flying the flag for Australia was The Glass House [peanut butter or vegemite on toast, salads with meat and cheese and even lamingtons].
Doner Kebabs are from Turkey via Belgium, offering Belgian style Shoarma, lamb or chicken on pide bread. Ulu is Thai and even though many of the standard dishes are done completely different to any other Thai restaurant, here or there, all are interesting and taste good, so who cares?
Fortune Cookie moved to new larger premises with its Cantonese cuisine. The American standards are catered for in the Stadium Caf? Burgers, Pancakes and Sport! The Renon area around the central park constantly sees new budget restaurants, all serving a selection of Indonesian regional cuisines.
The full fours sides of the one way system boast new places, stars of which are Tangie with its range of dishes using small kampung chickens but the Nasi Bebek is far more palatable to the westerner.
Oenpao has many dim sum varieties but usually without the right accompanying sauce. In Denpasar itself Sitara offers very original Indian cuisine. Ubud saw a spate of new restaurants after a couple of quiet years following the boom from earlier in the decade when new places opened every month [many of whom have since gone or are struggling]. The same ratio is about right for the new crop. Established local Ubud establishments, Ibu Oka and Bali Pesto, both opened small off-shoots in Mas, amongst the wood carving galleries.
Renovations were also the order of the day in Ubud led by famous icon Bebek Bengil which now has a modern front foyer and lounge facing their new state-of-the-art open kitchen. Up in Penestenan both Bayu? Gayatri on Monkey Forest Road re-built in local style and Nuriani in Pengosekan rebuilt in an up-market Balinese style. New restaurants included Meme? New places to open, and not yet reviewed, include Bolero on Dewa Sita, with connections to the popular Ibu Rai, and Warung Wackel [where Warung Padang Tegal stood for many years] which offers German cuisine in Ubud, the first since Pumperknickel in Nagi closed down ten years ago.
Outside of Ubud, in the rice paddies of Mambal, there appeared another huge all-bamboo construction, this one housing a health retreat and Vegan restaurant where no expense has been spared to create perfection.
A visit to the Sakti Dining Room at the Fivelements Puri Ahimsa retreat is one of those so peaceful dining experiences that you never want to end. Stuffed Zucchini Blossom is a great starter. Inside is a mix of cabbage, bok choy, shiitake mushroom, tofu, ginger root, green chilli paste and a yuzu-tamari sauce. Zucchini Manicotti, thin strips of zucchini wrapped around a?
Live Lasagna is layers of cashew nut? Candi Das did not change a lot but the happening is just around the corner led the way by the adventurous management at the Watergarden Hotel where they host a different feast almost every week including their now famous Octoberfest. Further up the coast at what is called Amed, new small warungs appear almost monthly. Old favourite Warung Brith has become Shanti, after an Italian makeover, and another smaller Warung Brith has emerged just north of Culik.
North of Tulamben new dive hotels have arrived including the majestic Tantris restaurant at the Siddhartha Resort and a less pretentious one at Kubu Indah. What will we see in ? More of the same, no doubt? Already we hear many rumours of what may be happening including a? Definite new openings are many. Another newbie is due for the middle of Laksmana from someone with a perfect track record that promises a new great value place, the sort that never fail!
Kunti, Semimnyak, the original site for the very successful Caf? Marzano, after two failed attempts at French reverts to type as Unicorn, Italian once more! A new quality restaurant on Jln. Kartika Plaza [with parking] will be a boon for that area which is now so full of the tourist variety.
Sands will soon open at Santika Beach Hotel with more than a few similarities to the beachfront Breeze at sister establishment The Samaya. Ubud will see the opening of yet another tourist restaurant where the once-busy B. Bridges has also had a massive up-market recreation, with multi levels down towards the river, just across the gorge from Murni? In the rice paddies, between Penestenan and Nyuh Kuning will be a two-level Indian restaurant, in yet another bamboo construction.
Candi Dasa is the latest area to be going through a revival. The Watergarden Hotel, a trail blazer and leader in the quality stakes, took over the contract of the long-failed Kedai [once part of Ubud? As usual there were a few sad failures during Number One in this category was EIGHT in Sanur, maybe it was too far out of the tourist stream but more likely a bit too sophisticated for the taste of those who live in and visit this area of Bali.
Young Singaporean Chef Abu Goh is far too talented to stay quiet for long so expect something new and exciting from him in , this time in an area that appreciates quality cuisines with taste. Best Fine Dining - Cocoon Beach? Legian Relaxed Mediterranean dining, beachfront. The highest quality, the best taste, smiling young attentive staff, all so professional and with reasonable prices. The quality find of ! Best Restaurant - OM Organic? Canggu Eco-friendly bamboo construction that overlooks an un-spoilt beach, relaxing new restaurant serving local and international dishes all from organic ingredients.
Best Restaurant with Music - Caf? Ubud Eat to the beat of salsa, highly entertaining and never intrusive. Interesting menu offering Cuban-style dishes from breakfast to dinner time.
Best Value - Caf? Kerobokan The chef knows two cuisines, Thai and Javanese, and that is what he cooks, and very well! No giant International menu here just great food at budget prices. Best Vegetarian - Sakti? Set in idyllic rice paddy surroundings in the Fivelements Puri Ahimsa health retreat. Totally eco-friendly in an enormous bamboo construction shaped as a banana leaf. Food attention to detail is amazing! Kerobokan It used to be good but now it is great!
Moved 20 metres to much larger premises with air-conditioned inside and an outside terrace. Enormous range of freshly prepared Indonesian dishes at budget prices! Every year I begin by expressing my amazement at the continuing stream of new restaurants that have opened in the past year. The Bali food scene just seems to keep on getting better, and better. And the promises for look just as mouth-watering!
Once again the pleasant surprises were not just limited to the new elite up-market restaurants, although there were some wonderful ones, it has rather been the constant stream of high quality, yet budget-priced, restaurants that excite most. It is a sure sign that Bali has? Anyone who complains about the cost of quality dining in Bali [apart from that of imported beverages] must lead a sheltered life in their home country.
Others fell by the wayside as always happens. Many that deserved it and others will be missed. However , as in every recent year, saw a significant net increase in the number of restaurants. Some have spent a? That great cocktail of life; experience, work ethic and luck! I sometimes walk into a new restaurant and look around in amazement at how anyone could spend so much money setting up a place that looks and feels to me as if it will never work. Whilst other new places give out the opposite feeling; one of somewhere with success just around the corner, although sadly that does not always come.
The most important newbie was Rin at The Conrad. Australian chef Richard Miller, who had kicked off Dava at the old Ritz Carlton, returned to Bali to set up this Modern Japanese restaurant after having spent some time in Japan at Sheraton?
Chicken and Wild Mushroom Ravioli [one large piece], baby lentils, wolfberry and chorizo was International, a Green Tea and Asparagus Risotto with baby barramundi and seaweed emulsion an experiment in Fusion, Shiitake and Cabbage Gyoza a vegetarian version of that Japanese classic adopted from the Chinese. The eco-friendly Alila Villa, clifftop at Uluwatu leads the way. Stefan had led the team at Jakarta? Great chefs can produce dishes with often simple ingredients but marry them in such a way that your?
A large open soup plate arrives with a curled jumbo prawn topped with dried tomato sitting all alone on centre stage, poured in from a small old fashioned iron kettle is the chilled melon soup that you have ordered, sweet to the taste and so refreshing on a hot day.
Follow that with a salad of baby Romaine lettuce leaves [called Cos lettuce outside of America] served in a crunchy bunch, scattered with slivers of smoked duck breast and tangy papaya chutney, sparsely sprinkled with orange vinaigrette. A grilled fillet of barramundi is perfect, the mild passion fruit vinaigrette does not overpower the fish, the potato croquettes a good example of simple things done well; the breaded shell remains firm and crunchy, the mashed potato contents never go mushy, even when cut through.
To finish; the most perfect Raspberry Souflee! The souflee is soft and fluffy right to the bottom of the bowl with no sludge in sight. An accompanying spoon of intensely flavoured raspberry sorbet is studded with small chunks of frozen white chocolate. Definitely the best of ! In Ungasan itself were a number of new small restaurants, as well as branches of others already established elsewhere in Bali.
Most interesting is Kat? All at budget prices, and air-conditioned! Always a great beach spot, it now combines many fresh food choices with lounge drinking to go with the sunset viewing. Not far away Ma Joly changed chefs and styles, still one of Bali?
It is a Dutch Pub! Green Pea Soup [with smoked pork sausage and crisp bacon, Frikandel, an imported Dutch Sausage or Broodje Frikandel, on a bun, Broodje Gehaktbal [meatball on a bun], Krokets, Andijvie Stampot [mashed potato combined with strips of Endive with bits of fried bacon and a meat ball] or Hutspot. Plus Heineken beer on tap, of course.
For the domestic market newcomers to Jln. Tuban included another Papa Ron? Kuta has two halves the old established area close to the beach and the quickly developing North, out and around Sunset Road.
Chinoiserie with its stylish interior and wonderful Singaporean cuisine was one of the year? The basic Chinese dishes are sometime in original form, sometimes a variation thereof. The Chinese had been cooking pork ribs for centuries before that great American discovery. The most traditional follows a marination and subsequent basting with Chinese red wine. A modern version has them marinated and braised in a coffee sauce, like all the sauces here well balanced with just a hint of coffee flavour.
The ribs are large chunks of flesh and fat, with little bone. Their star attraction is genuine Singaporean Chilli Crab. It is quite a process but one that they do properly, unlike other places that just promote the name. In old Kuta Formosa was a newcomer with its Taiwanese cuisine, a mix of Chinese and Korean in taste and style. It replaced one of the many large restaurants that mainly serve bus loads of tourists but retains a similar trade.
The sole newcomer of any quality in Legian was a French restaurant almost hidden inside small hotel grounds. The Pearl is way above standard fare, its young French chef turning out great meals at reasonable prices. It has a mix of interesting vegetarian dishes [a pumpkin Veloute in a coconut milk curry, a Confit of Vegetables Terrine and a Ravioli stuffed with eggplant caviar and a basil veloute] and normal ones [chicken breast stuffed with mushrooms and herbs and a Lamb Shank in mustard with fried garlic eggplant and potato gratin.
Sea Bass is with pesto and the Mahi-Mahi a ginger sauce]. Seminyak just stutters along these days with as many places closing as opening. Colonial Living on the north side presents quality and innovative Vegetarian, their Mushroom Loaf is wonderful. Finely diced mushrooms [normal, oyster and shiitake] have been combined with crushed cashew nuts and carrot.
Two slices of the loaf sit on the plate like patties, surprisingly hot, accompanied by a pile of perfect greens that have been doused in a tangy dressing.
The combination of fashion and food has now spread to this area, The Backyard Lounge and Word of Mouth are but two. It is a concept that only a handful of experienced restaurateurs can make work. In the same Jln. Kunti Atelier 13 replaced the always full Caf?
Marzano [which moved to Legian and is still packed every day]. The new version is French and quiet. Ryoshi also moved its premises, but only to the enormous next door premises that used to house Kura Kura. Care was taken to replicate the old Ryoshi as much as possible, in the downstairs air-conditioned section, but add outside garden seating and roof top with live Jazz.
The result has been that the new Ryoshi is now one of Bali? Delicious Onion also moved, from a mini shop on the main road to a larger one in Drupadi almost next to the vibrant Sorriso, one of last year? Chicken Rice still its mainstay. Cosa Nostra opened on Drink Street to feed the hungry late night drinkers with a common combination for that area of pre-cooked Italian dishes and pizzas. A little warung sized restaurant further down Dhyana Pura was one of ? Passargad is a Persian Kebab House, producing steamed rice and marinated kebabs nothing like any other rice or meat on a stick you have had before.
Not surprising as Persian cuisine is amongst the world? Kerobokan has seen a major change. The original Eat Street [Laksmana] has had a facial, now fashion and real estate have taken over. Perhaps they are the only ones now able to afford the escalating rents.
The restaurant scene has moved around the corner to the other side of that triangle, Raya Petitenget, and is rapidly going up-market, although quality budget places still thrive. In the old street Gusto was new [Spanish] but soon changed its coat and became the street?
Seminyak Square opened though it is not even in Seminyak, on lower Laksmana, and contains another Bali Bakery as well as a close-to-original Black Canyon [one of Thailand?
One place that has successfully combined fashion and food [and champagne] has been Red Carpet. The major attraction being their fresh oysters and vintage champagne. Your oyster starter can be in the way of a shot [an oyster inside a shot glass of a Bloody Mary mix] or a plate of Natural, Kilpatrick or Rockefeller. The choice of Champagne is one of the most extensive I have ever seen, and some of the prices of the rarer vintages are scary.
The more standard varieties are sold by the glass but the bottle range is world class. Even Rose Champagne, pink champers! And very busy, every day! Another most unusual restaurant opened in the bottom loop of Laksmana, a gourmet hamburger palace called Wah Wah. The search for that elusive perfect hamburger has interesting results at Wah Wah, where the meat is cooked so as to remove all the fat.
No Bali cow in your hamburger here, but imported chilled [not frozen] and hung prime Wagyu beef. They offer Gourmet Burgers with many combinations, even one topped with Foie Gras! On the new Eat Street the building frenzy has been constant. Snacks, light meals, a wide variety of sandwiches and chickens from the rotisserie a star attraction.
Biku is a tea house. An incredible year old Joglo house from East Java that was once an antique shop, that has now been transformed into one of the most relaxing environments for sipping your preferred cup of tea, checking your emails and nibbling Aussie Scones, noshing on Aussie style meat pies or enjoying any of the other light or full meals from their extensive menu.
The range of teas is mind boggling, and takes up 9 pages of their menu. Jemme was one of the finds of the year, alongside and apart of Jemme Jewelry, its cool clean feel is very welcomes on a hot Bali day.
Simple food, extremely well prepared and served includes Duck Maryland [leg and thigh combined] served with a crisp skin. The flesh is so tender and the skin crisp, Asian style. Butterfish sits on a slab of roast pumpkin and shiitake mushroom noodle cake. On top a wasabi sauce, quite mild and not overpowering. The food is interesting, innovative and tasty. Budget priced as well! Sanur continues to re-invented with many new places still under development. Charming, an off-shoot of the long established Mings, steadily made its mark with International offering in very pleasant surroundings.
Ratatouille replaced Figaro at the northern end of Sanur. It is under Dutch management which is evident from the many Dutch options on the menu. Now a new, strikingly modern, restaurant, still called Sanur Harum, offers a wide range of Asian cuisine as well as the original Cantonese, Szechuan and Beijing standards.
The daily Free-Flow Dim Sum lunches continue to be as popular as ever. Ubud went on another splurge of restaurant openings, the usual mix of budget and classy categories. Siam Sally opened on the site of the old Barandi after a massive re-building project, offering their version of Thai cuisine.
Bar Luna, an off-shoot of Casa Luna opened on a back street and remains undiscovered. The Pond is just across the lotus pond from the other Artini restaurant, Pundi-Pundi, but so far not as busy. Istanbul Restaurant was a late opener in the year, with its hot Turkish bread a necessary order with whatever else you have.
At city centre two new restaurants from a well-established chain from Nusa Dua that cater for the bulk tourist market, menus and food simple and the menus available in many different languages.
Tropical opened to a permanent full house soon followed by Coco Bistro, their other brand name. Up on the hill, just below Sayan is The Melting Pot, their Louisiana-style Cajun Gumbo [a spicy, thick, meat and vegetable stew containing celery, okra, scallions, green peppers, chicken and pork sausages as well as many secret ingredients] the main attraction.
Down the hill is West End Caf? Their large salad selection includes the Classic Cob, a monster Chef? Sandwiches of Cajun Chicken, perfectly rare Roast Beef, and an old favourite that will take you back to your school days; Chopped Egg in Mayonnaise with shredded lettuce At Sanggingan a classy small restaurant opened without any fuss.
It soon became a popular haunt for those who appreciate high quality food, albeit from a vastly different cuisine. Minami is laid back and stylish, tables well spaced for privacy all facing a small garden.
Japanese it is but unlike most others, Minami serves Osaka cuisine, rarely seen outside of Japan. An example is Dashimaki, an egg broth that has been folded and rolled finishing as a rectangular block topped with grated daikon radish It is the 1st of four appetizers that can be sampled in a special Tasting dish for 2 persons.
Miso ae; minced beef and minute strips of eggplant combined in a sweet miso sauce and the 4th a wonderful miniature bowl of super soft baby chicken with gratings of carrot and radish in a miso broth. Hundreds of people had run from the street into the store to take shelter from the air raid.
Artillery bombardment of Leningrad began in August , increasing in intensity during with the arrival of new equipment. It was stepped up further during , when several times as many shells and bombs were used as in the year before. Torpedoes were often used for night bombings by the Luftwaffe. To sustain the defence of the city, it was vitally important for the Red Army to establish a route for bringing a constant flow of supplies into Leningrad.
This route was effected over the southern part of Lake Ladoga and the corridor of land which remained unoccupied by Axis forces between Lake Ladoga and Leningrad. Transport across Lake Ladoga was achieved by means of watercraft during the warmer months and land vehicles driven over thick ice in winter hence the route becoming known as "The Ice Road". This was because no evacuation plan had been made available in the chaos of the first winter of the war, and the city was completely isolated until 20 November , when the ice road over Lake Ladoga became operational.
This road was named the Road of Life Russian: As a road it was very dangerous. There was the risk of vehicles becoming stuck in the snow or sinking through broken ice caused by the constant German bombardment.
Because of the high winter death toll the route also became known as the "Road of Death". However, the lifeline did bring military and food supplies in and took civilians and wounded soldiers out, allowing the city to continue resisting their enemy. The two-and-a-half year siege caused the greatest destruction and the largest loss of life ever known in a modern city.
The days of the siege caused extreme famine in the Leningrad region through disruption of utilities, water, energy and food supplies. This resulted in the deaths of up to 1,,  soldiers and civilians and the evacuation of 1,, more mainly women and children , many of whom died during evacuation due to starvation and bombardment. Economic destruction and human losses in Leningrad on both sides exceeded those of the Battle of Stalingrad , the Battle of Moscow , or the bombing of Tokyo.
The siege of Leningrad ranks as the most lethal siege in world history , and some historians speak of the siege operations in terms of genocide , as a "racially motivated starvation policy" that became an integral part of the unprecedented German war of extermination against populations of the Soviet Union generally. Civilians in the city suffered from extreme starvation , especially in the winter of — Deaths peaked in January—February at , per month, mostly from starvation.
While reports of cannibalism appeared in the winter of —42, NKVD records on the subject were not published until Most evidence for cannibalism that surfaced before this time was anecdotal.
Anna Reid points out that "for most people at the time, cannibalism was a matter of second-hand horror stories rather than direct personal experience". NKVD files report the first use of human meat as food on 13 December The latter were usually shot while the former were sent to prison. The Soviet Criminal Code had no provision for cannibalism, so all convictions were carried out under Code Article 59—3, "special category banditry".
Instances of person-eating were significantly lower than that of corpse-eating; of the people arrested in April for cannibalism, only 44 were murderers. More cases occurred in the outlying districts than in the city itself. Cannibals were often unsupported women with dependent children and no previous convictions, which allowed for a certain level of clemency in legal proceedings.
Given the scope of mass starvation, cannibalism was relatively rare. In the first six months of , Leningrad witnessed 1, such murders. At the same time, Leningrad was experiencing its highest mortality rate, as high as , people per month. Lisa Kirschenbaum notes "that incidents of cannibalism provided an opportunity for emphasizing that the majority of Leningraders managed to maintain their cultural norms in the most unimaginable circumstances.
On 9 August , the Symphony No. The concert was broadcast on loudspeakers placed throughout the city and also aimed towards the enemy lines. The same day had been previously designated by Hitler to celebrate the fall of the city with a lavish banquet at Leningrad's Astoria Hotel ,  and was a few days before the Sinyavino Offensive. The Sinyavino Offensive was a Soviet attempt to break the blockade of the city in early autumn The 2nd Shock and the 8th armies were to link up with the forces of the Leningrad Front.
At the same time the German side was preparing an offensive to capture the city, Operation Nordlicht Northern Light , using the troops freed up after the capture of Sevastopol. The offensive began on 27 August with some small-scale attacks by the Leningrad front, pre-empting " Nordlicht " by a few weeks.
The successful start of the operation forced the Germans to redirect troops from the planned " Nordlicht " to counterattack the Soviet armies. After parts of the 2nd Shock Army were encircled and destroyed, the Soviet offensive was halted.
However, the German forces also had to abandon their offensive. The encirclement was broken in the wake of Operation Iskra Spark , a full-scale offensive conducted by the Leningrad and Volkhov Fronts. This offensive started in the morning of 12 January The siege continued until 27 January , when the Soviet Leningrad-Novgorod Strategic Offensive expelled German forces from the southern outskirts of the city.
This was a combined effort by the Leningrad and Volkhov Fronts, along with the 1st and 2nd Baltic Fronts. During the siege, 3, residential buildings, 9, wooden houses were burned, and factories and plants were destroyed in Leningrad and suburbs.
Almost all Finnish historians regard the siege as a German operation and do not consider that the Finns effectively participated in the siege. Russian historian Nikolai Baryshnikov argues that active Finnish participation did occur, but other historians have been mostly silent about it, most likely due to the friendly nature of post-war Soviet—Finnish relations. The main issues which count in favour of the former view are: Baryshnikov explains that the Finnish military in the region was strategically dependent on the Germans, and lacked the required means and will to press the attack against Leningrad any further.
Deportations of Finns and Germans from the Leningrad area to inhospitable areas of the Soviet Union began in March using the Road of Life; many of their descendants still remain in those areas today. Inhospitable areas of the Soviet Union hosted millions of the evacuees; many factories, universities, and theatres were also evacuated there. Even during the siege itself, war artifacts were collected and shown to the public by city authorities, such as the German airplane that was shot down and fell to the ground in Tauricheskiy Garden ru: Several years after World War II, in the late s — early s, Stalin's supposed jealousy of Leningrad city leaders caused their destruction in the course of politically-motivated show trials forming the post-WWII Leningrad Affair the pre-war purge followed the assassination of the popular city ruler Sergey Kirov.
Now another generation of state and Communist Party functionaries of the city was wiped out, supposedly for publicly overestimating the importance of the city as an independent fighting unit and their own roles in defeating the enemy. Their brainchild, the Leningrad Defence Museum, was also destroyed, and many valuable exhibits were destroyed.
The museum was revived in the late s with the then wave of glasnost, when new shocking facts were published, showing both heroism of the wartime city and hardships and even cruelties of the period. The exhibition opened in its originally allocated building, but has not yet regained its original size and area, most of its former premises having been given before its revival over to the military and other governmental offices.
Plans for a new modern building of the museum have been suspended due to the financial crisis, but under the present Defence Secretary Sergey Shoigu promises have been made to expand the museum at its present location.
Commemoration of the siege got a second wind during the s. Local workers of art dedicated their achievements to the Victory and memory of the war they saw. A leading local poet and war participant Mikhail Dudin suggested erecting a ring of monuments on the places of heaviest siege-time fighting and linking them into a belt of gardens around the city showing where the advancing enemy armies were stopped forever.
That was the beginning of the Green Belt of Glory ru: On 29 October , a monument entitled Broken Ring of the Siege, ru: Designed and created by Konstantin Simun , the monument pays tribute not only to the lives saved via the frozen Ladoga, but also the many lives broken by the blockade. Mental Health Therapist Company: Giller is the owner and founder of DietFreeRadiantMe.
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